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The Gateway Garment
By the late 1880s, the bicycle’s popularity really took off. For instance, in 1880, a group of early cycling advocates called the League of American Wheelmen had a membership of 40; by 1898, its ranks had bloated to nearly 200,000. Cycling was so popular that in 1896 The New York Journal of Commerce estimated bicycling was costing theaters, restaurants and other businesses over 100 million dollars per year. Considering the way the bicycle was exploding in popularity, it was only natural that women should get in on the act.
Before bicycles came along, the horse was the best means of individual travel. Of course, women’s access to horses was limited. Horses were dangerous and difficult to control; conventional medical wisdom suggested that riding them could damage a woman’s genitals. Women were supposed to ride sidesaddle, with both legs hanging off one side. In that unnatural position, women were unable to ride for long distances, reinforcing the idea that they shouldn’t be riding at all.
Bicycles, by comparison, were easy to manipulate. There was no reason a woman couldn’t get on a bike and sedately pedal farther from her home than she’d ever been before. No reason, that is, other than her cumbersome attire and the convention that if she did so, she’d either have her virtue corrupted or die of exhaustion.
In order for women to take part in the new craze without becoming entangled in the bike’s chain, they needed to wear shorter skirts or even (gasp!) bifurcated garments called bloomers. It was also necessary that they leave the house and exert themselves physically—all activities previously considered unladylike.
The severity of the outcry against women participating in these activities is proof of their effectiveness. The brave women who donned rational dress were criticized, denied access to public places and widely mocked in the media. A satirical poem in one U.S. paper, for instance, suggested bloomers were a sort of “gateway garment,” the wearers of which might go on to participate in such dastardly pursuits as business or reading.
Female cyclists were often accosted verbally and physically as they rode. Emma Eades, one of the first women to ride a bike in London, was attacked with bricks and stones. Men and women alike demanded that she go home where she belonged and behave properly.
Many people feared that the unprecedented mobility the bicycle allowed women would corrupt them morally. In fact, a business called The Cyclist’s Chaperon Association provided “gentlewomen of good social position to conduct ladies on bicycle excursions and tours.” These gentlewomen had to satisfy strict criteria to qualify as guardians of virtue. They were married ladies, widows or unmarried ladies over 30. They needed three personal references, two from ladies of unquestionable social position, and another from a clergyman of the church—all this to protect women from becoming morally debased by their bikes.
Even in the face of this overwhelming social condemnation, cycling groups persevered and eventually wrought fundamental changes in society’s view. Women did get out on their bikes and, to everyone’s surprise, didn’t faint or commit egregious moral atrocities. In fact, they discovered what everyone who rides a bike learns: It makes you more fit, more relaxed, and more aware. Women gained increased self-sufficiency, better physical conditioning, and, as a bonus, won some freedom from their restrictive clothing and its attendant social bonds.
The Vehicle of Women’s Lib
The 1900 United States Census Report, released more than 20 years after the introduction of the bicycle, said, “Few articles ever used by man have created so great a revolution in social conditions as the bicycle.” For women, this held especially true.
The bicycle continues to endear itself to free thinkers. Even today, it’s the centerpiece of many reform movements. Jacquie Phelan (pictured), for instance, is a feminist mountain biker who founded WOMBATS, the Women’s Mountain Bike and Tea Society. A three-time world champion voted one of the 10 best mountain bikers of all time, Phelan is a tireless warrior in the fight for equality. She advocates two prices for bikes based on the 59 cents women make to every dollar earned by a man. (She was inspired to take action when she finished sixth in a race and was mistakenly given the $400 dollar men’s prize instead of the $42 allotted to the female finisher.)
As the bicycle continues to lend itself to causes of all kinds, it is important to remember its first battle. Liberating is a word easily associated with cycling. Flying down a tree-lined road with the wind in your face is certainly a liberating experience, but for early female cyclists, a simple bike ride was liberating in a much more significant way.
This article originally appeared in mental_floss magazine, available wherever brilliant (or lots of) magazines are sold.
Comments (19)
Comment
Best.Post.Ever.
posted by fixedgear on 5-15-2008 at 8:36 am
Oh, how the times have changed! Bloomers as ‘gateway’ clothing! HA! Those wacky Victorians! I wonder what the people of that time would think about The Pussycat Dolls?
posted by Rachel on 5-15-2008 at 8:41 am
The decline of our culture is directly related to the women’s lib movement.
posted by Sam on 5-15-2008 at 9:11 am
Superb article. Thank you!
posted by alanocu on 5-15-2008 at 10:02 am
Yes Sam, obviously. *rolls eyes so hard she almost falls over*
posted by Lisa H on 5-15-2008 at 10:22 am
Posted this link in www.surfurls.com
posted by gibsy on 5-15-2008 at 10:34 am
Great post! Thanks!….um, and I’d like to buy Sam a drink - seems someone needs to relax!
posted by Christian on 5-15-2008 at 10:46 am
What a great post! **applauds**
posted by Krie on 5-15-2008 at 11:06 am
Good story but there are 2 mistakes: First, Victorian women wore many other colors other than black! Most frequently in white, cream, shades of blue or some type of brocade. Second, it’s not possible to “slide” off of a horse’s side-saddle. In fact, it’s really hard to get off the stupid things because two counter-facing “horns” effectively brace the right leg onto the saddle. Sliding is impossible.
posted by Daphne on 5-15-2008 at 11:50 am
Great article! Sam needs to go away.
posted by Olivia on 5-15-2008 at 11:56 am
A woman needs a bicycle like a man needs a fish?
posted by Darla on 5-15-2008 at 11:57 am
This article puts the position of contemporary women in much of the Islamic world into perspective…
posted by Michelle on 5-15-2008 at 12:12 pm
I’ll second what Daphne said re: side saddles. The danger of them is that they’re much harder to get out of than a conventional saddle, not that it’s too easy.
Also, the word is “strait-laced.” (www.etymonline.com/index.php?term=strait) It goes back to Old French estrait, while “straight” goes back to Old English streht.
posted by Erin on 5-15-2008 at 12:48 pm
Thanks for the info, Daphne & Erin. Since corrected. This clearly means our office needs a mental_floss horse.
posted by Jason English on 5-15-2008 at 1:09 pm
Great article! I actually remember seeing a real life demonstration of the liberating effect of bicycles when I was watching that PBS show “1900 House”. The women were going crazy because they couldn’t get out of the house (they couldn’t go swimming with the family because they had their periods and were supposed to be living “in period,” sorry, pun).
Then they got a bike, and suddenly they could go out, get around, wear lighter clothing, breathe, it was awesome.
posted by Julia on 5-15-2008 at 3:23 pm
Great article. A response to Sam and others that denounce him. The only connection between the freedom of women and a decline in culture is that, now, women have security in thier freedom and are less likely to object to society’s more inventive, and less-obvious exploitation and degradation. Today, we have the opposite of the Victorian woman — exhibitionism is the fashion of the day — it is what sells in our culture. This is still a “weak” portrayal and it’s effects will continue to ripple through the culture in a downward spiral because men are more likely to respond positive than women are to respond negative.
posted by AKaufman on 5-15-2008 at 6:32 pm
Delightful article.
My favorite quote: “A satirical poem in one U.S. paper, for instance, suggested bloomers were a sort of “gateway garment,” the wearers of which might go on to participate in such dastardly pursuits as business or reading.”
oooooooooooooooo, spooky… Next thing you know, those uppity, bike riding wenches will be running for President of the United States of America.
posted by Devans00 on 5-16-2008 at 8:14 am
The emancipation effect never faded in many European countries. In particular in Copenhagen - the world’s cycling capital [as seen on the famous Copenhagen Cycle Chic blog,] - and in Amsterdam women ride in style and with grace and the bicycle continues to provide the freedom they deserve.
posted by Mikael on 5-20-2008 at 2:43 pm
Living in Milwaukee, a city saturated with Harleys, it’s great to see the recent rise in the number of women riders.
Slightly off topic, as a part of the “lower classes”, I’ve found this socioeconomic position to be more than enlightening to gender discrimination. My dad taught me that when something needs to be done you do it, and you don’t screw around. Yet time and time again I witness that some men can’t control their need to assert their “superiority” and insert themselves into women’s business, without a polite ‘can I give you a hand?’, and finish the task, complaining when the women don’t throw themselves at their feet with gratitude…meanwhile there’s other work they could and should be doing. I recall a time when a “gentleman” tore a tire iron out of my hands and changed my tire, although I was in a hurry and he took forever, yapping the whole time, taking no notice that I was dirty, greasy, and wearing my Midas uniform.
Sam, did you say something? I’m sorry, I wasn’t listening. It’s really cute you have an opinion, though.
posted by Lorie on 5-22-2008 at 9:57 am