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I think most cooks would assume that they know how to cook an egg: put it in boiling water for 10-15 minutes. But French cook (and molecular gastronomist) Hervé This disagrees:
“Cooking eggs is really a question of temperature, not time,” says This. To make the point, he switches on a small oven, sets the thermostat at 65°C, or 149°F, takes four eggs straight from the box, and unceremoniously places them inside. “I use an oven in the lab; it’s easier. But if the oven in your kitchen is not accurate, cook eggs in plenty of water, using a good thermometer.” About an hour later—timing isn’t critical, and the eggs can stay in the oven for hours or even overnight—he retrieves the first egg and carefully shells it. “The 65-degree egg!” he announces. The egg is unlike any I’ve eaten. The white is as delicately set and smooth as custard, and the yolk is still orange and soft. It’s not hard to see why l’oeuf à soixante-cinq degrés is becoming the rage with chefs in France. (Salmonella can’t survive more than a few minutes at 60°C, or 140°F, so a 65-degree egg cooked for an hour should be quite safe.)
But why does it work this way? Well, let This hit you with a little molecular gastronomy:
…[W]hen an egg cooks, its proteins first unwind and then link to form a rigidifying mesh. But not all its proteins solidify at the same temperature. Ovotransferrin, the first of the egg-white proteins to uncoil, begins to set at around 61 degrees Celsius, or 142°F. Ovalbumin, the most abundant egg-white protein, coagulates at 184°F. Yolk proteins generally fall in between, with most starting to solidify when they approach 158°F. Thus, cooking an egg at 158°F or so should achieve both a firmed-up yolk and still-tender whites, since at that low temperature only some of the egg-white proteins will have coagulated.
This proceeds to demonstrate the differences between eggs cooked at 65°C, 67°C, and 70°C — they’re surprisingly distinct, and he can tell the difference just by sight.
Read the rest for an interesting introduction to molecular gastronomy as it relates to eggs. (Be sure to visit the second page for the specifics on eggs.)
(Via Kottke.org.)
Ooh, sounds like a delicious test for my new oven with its accurate digital thermometer (first one I’ve ever had; I’m still excited)
posted by Lindsey on 8-27-2008 at 2:59 pm
Looking forward to trying this, though I will have to put them in water with a thermometer. I don’t trust my oven.
posted by K on 8-27-2008 at 3:31 pm
Molecular Gastronomy is absolutely amazing. Anyone who has had the pleasure of eating at Alinea, WD-50 or El Bulli, knows the amazing dishes molecular gastronomists can create. As for the above method, it works for more than just eggs, and the “lots of water” method mentioned in the article goes by the term “sous vide.”
Actually, I would caution anyone who plans to use the dry roast method. Ovens are notoriously inaccurate and work by cycling on and off. Temperatures are kept at a range more so than at one specific temperature. Doesn’t matter with most foods, but if you’re cooking at the molecular level, the cycling will affect the final product.
posted by Florida on 8-27-2008 at 3:56 pm
Maybe it’s a brit thing- but what kind of egg takes 10-15 mins to cook?!
posted by Blaise on 8-28-2008 at 4:30 am
@Blaise
A “hard-boiled” egg as it’s known in the US. Basically boiling an egg for 10-15 minutes until the entire egg is cooked.
posted by B on 8-29-2008 at 1:31 pm
This sounds like onsen tamago. That’s Japanese for an egg that’s cooked in water from a hot spring, onsen means hot spring which would be about the correct temperature; 65C to 68C, and tamago means egg. Kuro tamago (kuro means black) are eggs cooked in the sulfur vapor that often emanates around such springs. The shells really are black, and the eggs are delicious!
posted by Jimichan on 8-29-2008 at 5:36 pm
This is so interesting and cool. I can’t wait to try it. I will definitely have to do it on the stove top with water, though.
posted by maven2k on 8-31-2008 at 4:38 pm