mental_floss magazine
SUBSCRIBE >
GIFT SUBSCRIPTIONS >
DIGITAL SUBSCRIPTIONS >
subscriber services >

This week we’re thrilled to have guest blogger Courtney Humphries posting with us. Courtney is the author of Superdove: How the Pigeon Took Manhattan…And the World and today she’s riffing on pigeons as a meal. We’ll let her take it from here:
Pigeons are edible, I swear! Since pigeons tend to poke around for food on sidewalks and in gutters, it might not occur to you that the birds are actually pretty appetizing. These days, we’re too used to seeing them as dirty urban pests instead of the mouthwatering treats they once were.
Truth be told, these birds have been enjoyed by people for thousands of years; in fact, they may have been the first bird to be domesticated for food in ancient Egypt and the Middle East. Pigeon dishes feature in traditional cuisines in Africa, Asia, and Europe, and Latin America and the poultry is typically served as a delicacy– prized for its dark, rich meat.
As for how to go about eating a pigeon (plating and chewing aside) here are a few tips. Pigeons are generally eaten just before they leave the nest, when they’re about four weeks old. As young birds, called squabs, they have a tender, dark meat that’s full of flavor. Because pigeons take a fair amount of time and labor to raise, they often fetch a high price at restaurants.
Oddly enough, their meat isn’t the only strangely valuable thing about the birds. Ancient Egyptians built large pigeon-houses, or dovecotes, which could house hundreds of birds, partially because pigeons were also highly valued for their dung. Egyptians collected and used it to fertilize the Nile valley.
Romans, who loved poultry of all sorts, also kept pigeons and brought them all over Europe. The birds were kept in lofts at the tops of houses or in large stone buildings called dovecotes.
Pigeons were so popular that they were carried on European ships to serve as food for settlers in North America. The street pigeons we see here are all descendants of these domesticated birds. In the U.S., pigeons were kept mostly on estates, but some entrepreneurs tried to launch large-scale pigeon farms beginning in the early 1900s. They developed special large breeds of pigeons with names like Silver King, Carneau, and Swiss Mondaine. Although many pinned their financial hopes on pigeons, a lot of these ventures eventually went bust. Today, there are still several pigeon farms around the country supplying birds to restaurants and specialty food stores. In Boston, it’s easy to find pigeon dishes at French restaurants and in Chinatown, where crispy fried squab is a traditional dish.
Of course, a much more inexpensive way to eat pigeon would be to catch one off the sidewalk. But since all urban birds can carry high levels of lead and other toxins, I’d recommend sticking to a country pigeon raised safely on a farm.
Want more stories about pigeons? Click here to purchase Courtney’s wonderful book Superdove: How the Pigeon Took Manhattan…And the World. And be sure to check out Wednesday’s post on Pigeon Guided Missiles.
I’ve eaten squab on more than one occasion. Give it a try. It’s delicious!
posted by Steve S on 2-12-2009 at 2:08 pm
Another reason for the popularity of pigeon as food (and delicious food it is, I know from experience) in European history is that it was one of the few fresh meats easily available in winter. Pigs and cattle were just too feed-intensive to stall over the winter, so you killed a lot in late fall/early winter, salted and cured the hell out of them, and kept a few for new stock in spring. Chickens were generally too useful for their eggs to kill for one dinner. But pigeons, bless ‘em, they could fly far and wide to forage the meager pickings of the cold season, then fly back to be at hand when those carnivorous urgings started! Little or no feed outlay, no need to herd, and tasty to boot! Maybe you had to settle for the adult rather than the preferred squab for a while, but better than the umpteenth serving of salt cod.
posted by VM on 2-12-2009 at 2:21 pm
I had pigeon the last time I visited Bolivia. It tastes a bit like Cornish Hen; very tasty and a little greasy.
posted by niconiconico on 2-12-2009 at 6:18 pm
Pigeon is seen often in menus in the Philippines and was even served at my cousin’s wedding reception. It’s not abundant in meat, but what ever is there tastes good. It’s a little game-y, similar to duck, but maintains the overall chicken-like impression. Give it a change.
posted by MJ on 2-12-2009 at 11:33 pm
No thanks, I’m vegan. Why would I want to put something so connected to violence into my body?
posted by Laura on 2-13-2009 at 9:05 am
Interesting. But if Tom Leher offers you one, you should probably just say no.
posted by KKB on 2-13-2009 at 9:52 am
“Why would I want to put something so connected to violence into my body?”
Probably because your body wouldn’t know the bird came to its end. It’s all in your head. ;)
posted by Steve S on 2-13-2009 at 4:39 pm
i love pigeons. And i like to share with u. the photo is lovely
posted by sherif hussein on 9-3-2009 at 2:33 pm
bird protector
posted by direk on 4-12-2010 at 4:28 am