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Mahmut Aygun has passed away at the age of 87. Aygun is the creator of what some call the “gyro” and others refer to as a “doner kebab.” No matter what name appears on the menu, the combination of seasoned lamb, onions, tomatoes and yoghurt sauce wrapped in a pita has been a staple of food courts around the world. As a tribute to Mr. Aygun, we’re inspired to take a quick look at the people behind some of our favorite “mall snacks.”
The Hero Behind Gyros
Kebab meat – a slab of lamb, preferably with an ample amount of fat, seasoned with a variety of spices and cooked on a skewer – had traditionally been served at restaurants on a plate with a side of rice. Mahmut Aygun, who’d emigrated from Turkey to Germany as a teen, ran a food stall in Berlin. In 1971 he was struck with inspiration – most of the food court’s late-night customers were those who wandered in after enjoying a drink or two (or more) at the local pubs. Aygun decided that a portable meal that could be munched while staggering to the train station would be more popular than a sit-down item, so he wrapped his kebab meat in pita bread. He also devised the distinctive yoghurt and dill sauce that gives the gyro sandwich that certain je ne sais quois.
The Madcap Inventor Behind the Orange Julius
Julius Freed loved to invent things, and some of his early patents included an inflatable shrimp trap and a portable pigeon shower. (Really.) He opened an orange juice stand in Los Angeles in 1926 and had modest success. His friend and real estate broker, Bill Hamlin, had a degree in chemistry and suggested that Freed add something to the fresh-squeezed juice to lessen its acidity. In fact, it was Hamlin who eventually came up with the mixture of crushed ice, syrup and a powder (whose ingredients are still secret) that created the frothy drink that we know today. The name of the new product was coined when customers at the counter would call out, “Give me an orange, Julius!”
Auntie Anne, Amish Entrepreneur
Anne Beiler was one of eight children born to Amish parents and had been baking bread as long as she could remember. At the age of 15 she got a job as a waitress at a truck stop near Gap, Pennsylvania, where she spent the next four years learning all about customer service. She eventually took a job at a stand in a local farmer’s market making old-fashioned hot, doughy Pennsylvania Dutch pretzels. When the stand was put up for sale, she bought it, tweaked the original recipe a bit, and founded Auntie Anne’s Pretzels. Thanks to word-of-mouth advertising, she was able to start franchising her business one year after starting it.
How a Panda Express Became Giant
Andrew Cherng came to the U.S. from Japan in the early 1970s and opened his first Chinese restaurant, a sit-down establishment called the Panda Inn, in Glendale, California. He was so concerned about keeping customers that if the dining room was full, he’d run out to the parking lot and promise anyone who didn’t want to wait for a table a free drink if they agreed to stay. A group of shopping mall developers were regular customers and they eventually approached Cherng with the idea of selling freshly prepared Chinese cuisine in their food courts. Panda Express now has 460 outlets across the country, each one offering 20 “core” menu items mandated by the company, and four additional dishes selected by the local franchise owner.
Man Gives Birth to Cinnabon
Rich Komen had leased a space in the food court of the Sea-Tac Mall in 1985 with the intent of opening his own T.J. Cinnamons franchise. When the franchise deal fell through, he was left with a shop that would open in 120 days and no product/name/recipe. He and four friends formed a “taste team” and the group sampled cinnamon rolls made from some 200 different recipes over the course of a month. They finally settled on a recipe that combined a moist, pillowy dough with Indonesian cinnamon and a cream cheese frosting.
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“Man Gives Birth to Cinnabun [sic]” – Technically I think it’s “Cinnabon”
Hi, my name is Jonathan and I’m a Cinnabon-a-holic.
True story – I was working for a clothing store in a mall, where the Cinnabon was located just outside our doors. I think I ate a Cinnabon a day (two on weekends sometimes) for six straight months. I gained 40 pounds as a result. Fed up with having to use my employee discount to buy “fat pants” every two weeks, I quit Cinnabon, cold turkey and I haven’t touched one since – that was 10 years ago.
posted by Jonathan on 2-24-2009 at 10:55 am
I loooove Orange Juilius… too bad they took it out of my local mall to put in a McDs.
I was hoping to see Hot Dog on a Stick on the list… maybe in the future.
posted by Sarah in CA on 2-24-2009 at 10:59 am
Ah, Auntie Anne’s. If I ran the mall, I’d put an Auntie Anne’s every other store so you could get one whenever you wanted and didn’t have to wait in a crazy long line for it.
posted by bedhead on 2-24-2009 at 11:03 am
We actually ate in what-I-believe is the “flagship” Auntie Anne’s in Pennsylvania Dutch country a couple years ago. We were surprised that the restaurant was affiliated with THE Auntie Anne’s (we were expecting something more traditional Amissh), but the sandwiches on pretzel rolls were good. Unfortunately, I’ve been unable to find exactly where the restaurant was located other than it was a small town not far from Lancaster near (or on) Route 30.
posted by Traveler on 2-24-2009 at 11:53 am
LOVE Auntie Anne’s! But I prefer Wetzel’s Pretzels… not sure is they’re really outside of Jersey though.
And the smell of Cinnabon in the mall should be illegal.
posted by Kelly J on 2-24-2009 at 12:50 pm
Traveler–
The original Auntie Anne’s is (was? I’m not sure if it’s still open) in Gap, PA. It is right off RT 30, coincidentally right before you hit Paradise! You can’t miss it if you’re driving from Philly to Lancaster.
posted by Pete on 2-24-2009 at 12:56 pm
I always assumed Gyros were Greek – Pita, Lamb, yummy-fatty-goodness. Is it GY-ro, Hero, or year-o?
posted by SDK on 2-24-2009 at 1:47 pm
SDK – I presume gyro is pronounced “year-o” – and yes, it is good stuff!
There used to be a Cinnabon in one of the malls I frequent, but it was replaced by a Asian fast food booth a couple of years ago… Lord, do I miss that smell wafting through the food court!
posted by Steve on 2-24-2009 at 2:12 pm
We have Wetzel’s Pretzels here in Colorado, so yeah they are outside of Jersey.
Now I want a gyro.
posted by Lee S. Hart on 2-24-2009 at 2:42 pm
How about Otis Spunkmeyer cookies?
posted by Ian on 2-24-2009 at 3:54 pm
Sarah in CA: I’ve always enjoyed your posts but you just became my hero for mentioning Hot Dog on a Stick. I used to work there and it was and still is my favorite job I’ve ever had. Here is the story for you:
Hot Dog was first opened in 1946 in Muscle Beach, CA by Dave Barham. His idea was to give everyone a show and to put people first. To this day, customer service is number one and fresh ingredients are a must. The lemonade is made every two hours, the batter is constantly being made and the hot dogs and cheese are never frozen. There is also a special method for making the lemonade, and the stores are set up so it is easy to watch for the customers. Dave Barham died in 1991, but that hasn’t stopped the store’s expansion. There are 103 stores now in 17 states. Hot Dog also does fairs in the summer time (one of my favorite parts of the job, personally).
The website shows you where you can find the stores. The stores are mostly on the west coast and SW area, with the largest concentration being in California.
posted by Tricia on 2-24-2009 at 4:15 pm
I have never heard of Hot Dog on a Stick before, but thanks to Tricia, I would like to try it sometime. If it makes someone enjoy working in fast food, it must be somewhat unique. (Actually, I’ve worked fast food before–Wendy’s–and didn’t hate it either. I wouldn’t say it was my favorite job though!)
posted by kate on 2-24-2009 at 5:07 pm
Tricia – Thanks for the history of Hot Dog on a Stick! In the same mall where the Cinnabon I mentioned in my earlier post was, there’s a Hot Dog on a Stick kiosk.
Great stuff – what can I say, I’m a sucker for a freshly cooked corn dog!
(I suppose I should ask, though – what’s with their uniforms? I always thought those sleeveless outfits were a little revealing… and it seems like it’s always cute gals running the booth – never a guy to be seen. Not that I mind, of course! :-p)
posted by Steve on 2-24-2009 at 5:23 pm
I’m so glad you guys liked the background. A word of advice Steve, don’t call them corn dogs. They’re very big on calling them “hot dogs”. The difference? Corn dogs are frozen.
The uniforms were developed in the sixties when those kinds of hats and hot pants were famous. The colors are just part of the show. It’s actually really fun to wear and you feel cute in it. Also, some people think there is gender discrimination but there certainly is not. The store I worked at had two guys there. I thik it’s just not the kind of place many guys would feel comfortable working at. They don’t have to wear the crazy hats either. They wear baseball caps.
posted by Tricia on 2-24-2009 at 7:06 pm
Tricia I love Hot Dog On A Stick. I wanted to work there when I was a kid because I loved those tall hats & the lemonade was to die for. You Lucky!
Ugh…hey Kara Kovalchik, every time I see or hear the words: je ne sais quois I throw up in my mouth a little – (holding it back) can you refrain from using it in the future please?
posted by Juliana on 2-24-2009 at 7:45 pm
Kara, Love the post. The best gyro in Athens Ga is not in the mall but just across from the arches at the UGA campus. The name has changed as has the owner but for over 30 years the place has served some good food. If you get to Athens make Sandy take you by.
posted by Kevin in GA on 2-24-2009 at 8:21 pm
Great Article but I would say there is an error on the first entry – there is a huge difference between a Gyro and a Doner Kebab.
The picture you have shows a gyro, but you describe the creation of the modern doner kebab. They have big flavor and ingredient differences. The wiki for the typical Greek gyro says that its origin is in question. I don’t think Aygun created what most Americans know as a Gyro, but probably created what most Europeans know as the Doner Kebab. I also question if Aygun created Tzatziki sauce.
posted by Val on 2-24-2009 at 8:39 pm
As a native New Zealander, I’m not accustomed to most of these brands, but I do recall a trip to Las Vegas several years ago – at the end of the trip I was waiting for my flight at the airport and got a whiff of Cinnabon – I had to have one.
Then I boarded my flight and as I settled in my seat, I opened the box and the delicious aroma wafted around the cabin – to squeals of ‘OHHHHHHH WHO HAS CINNABON? YUUUUUMMMM!!!” I had a lot of offers of money for my Cinnabon – especially as the plane food consisted of a single dry biscuit. But I was far too hungover (and hungry) to surrender my delicious snack.
posted by dangermouse on 2-24-2009 at 8:44 pm
A friend of my sister’s from college lives in Pensylvania and she something like Aunt Anne was kicked out of the Amish community for going cormercial with her recipe, which sounds ludicrous.
posted by Sara in AL on 2-24-2009 at 9:05 pm
Kevin, you are spot on about the gyros in Athens, GA!!! I always got the chicken.
posted by fanniefarkle on 2-24-2009 at 9:25 pm
im pretty darn sure Gyros are older then that.. I lived in greece as a kid, and I remeber eating them. this was (ahem) a few years prior to 1976…
wikipedia notes them starting in the 19th century
posted by MSL on 2-24-2009 at 10:03 pm
Panda Express? Bah. They don’t even use real panda – they use soy panda instead.
posted by Joe D on 2-25-2009 at 9:33 am
Does anyone remember Boardwalk Fries? I realize that they are just fries and vinegar but I used to get them every time I went to the mall (located in eastern CT) as a 8-12 y/o. Then we moved and the new local mall did not have one…and I have not seen one since. I loved just inhaling the hot tangy vinegar vapors…mmmm, now I want some…
posted by Zelda on 2-25-2009 at 9:24 pm
Sara in AL- I grew up in Amish Country (Lancaster, PA) and I wouldn’t be surprised at all to hear that Auntie Anne got kicked out, or shunned as they call it, for going commercial. Amish people have gotten shunned for much less.
posted by hodgepodge on 3-4-2009 at 7:15 pm
Agreeing with Val here. Sorry, no matter whether he claimed otherwise or not, Aygun definitely did not create tzatziki… he may have modified it for use on the sandwich or something like that, but it’s been around way longer than 30 years.
posted by Rachael on 3-5-2009 at 8:51 am
Gyros (kebabs in a pita) have been made and sold by greek and turkish restaurants in Europe for much longer than the 1970’s.
posted by me on 8-29-2009 at 10:33 pm