Bombay Beach may be the most famously depressing place in California; the poster child for the post-apocalypse. On the edge of the dying Salton Sea, an enormous body of water half the size of Rhode Island and so salty and polluted that by 2030 no fish will be able to survive in it, there is a town. There are several towns, actually, along the Salton’s 70+ miles of rancid coastline, but the most in tact, the most iconically awful, is Bombay Beach.
It’s a 10-by-10-block square of squat houses and mobile homes that was somebody’s idea of paradise back when the town was incorporated in 1929. A beachy getaway 150 miles from the Pacific, it was supposed to be Palm Springs with water — but decades of hyper-saline farm runoff and other problems turned the sea into a nightmare; plagued by fish and bird die-offs and outbreaks of botulism that leave its banks littered with corpses and its beaches smelling like hell, all but the hardiest tourists and investors had fled the scene by the late 60s. Even worse, the Salton began to overflow its banks, flooding the bottom part of town repeatedly. The remains of dozens of trailers and houses that couldn’t be saved still sit rotting, half-buried in salty mud, along what used to be the town’s most prized few blocks of real estate.
I’ve visited Bombay Beach a few times now, and was lucky to catch it in a dry period, when all the flooded parts had dried into a moonscape of salted mud, and again right after a big rain, when I could see the flooding that had ruined part of town and continues to tax residents’ patience today. For instance, here’s the trailer pictured above last year, after months of drought conditions:
But a few weeks ago, there were whole blocks of town underwater. This is 5th Street.
They built a dike awhile back, meant to keep the worst of the flooding on the side of town that had already been destroyed, and while it kind of works, it’s not perfect. The purr of gasoline generators echoed all along the empty streets, as these pumps did their best to empty water into the other side of the dike.
The other side of the dike was a watery wasteland, and made it obvious why people had abandoned this part of town in the first place.
Wet:
Dry:
Further back from the dike and the ruined parts of town, it’s hard to tell which houses have been abandoned and which have not. For instance, after a bit of investigation vis-a-vis people walking around, cars in driveways, functioning newspaper delivery services, etc., I discovered that the house on the left of frame was abandoned, but the house on the right — yeah, the one with “the hills have eyes” spray-painted on it and its windows semi-boarded-up — was not.
Part of the reason for semi-boarded windows, I think, is insulation; temperatures can reach 115 degrees in the summer — we’re in the middle of the desert here, with one of the lowest elevations in the United States — and people tend to hunker down in their houses with the A/C on and venture outside only when absolutely necessary.
Another fun fact about Bombay Beach: it’s located right alongside one of the most volatile sections of the San Andreas fault. Last year, a “swarm” of minor earthquakes was recorded centering around Bombay Beach. In a TV movie back in the 90s called The Big One, the foreshock that came right before the quake that destroys LA is centered in Bombay Beach. So it’s entirely possible that this ruined town might one day be famous as the place where the earthquake that ruined the rest of Southern California began.
Speaking of the beach, here’s what it looks like. That’s not sand, by the way — it’s the pulverized bones of millions of fish.
Not that the town doesn’t have its charming spots. The “fireside lounge” seems to be Bombay Beach’s answer to a town square: two-dozen metal folding chairs arranged around a fire pit. And it’s for sale!
Somewhat further afield, I discovered this trailer mired in mud. It seems pretty clear that whoever was hauling it got stuck and abandoned their cargo. When I ventured too close, I found out the hard way what it was they’d been hauling — dozens of still-active beehives, humming with bees who were mightily pissed off to have been left in the middle of nowhere, 100 miles from the nearest flower.
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this is a really fascinating post but it made me very curious about who lives there? what are the residents like?
posted by audra melissa on 3-22-2010 at 11:40 am
Good question, audra. I should really go back and talk to some of them. Other people have — here’s a little clip of an old lady touring the town in a golf cart (which people drive because the nearest gas station in dozens of miles away):
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0Mwp1PeEHB4
posted by Ransom Riggs on 3-22-2010 at 12:12 pm
Fascinating post. How many travel in your groups when you venture off to these isolated places like this? Brings to mind scenes like in (insert thriller movie title here) where locals terrorize the outsiders who come exploring…scares the bejezus outta me.
recaptcha: emotional bumbles…what was found on that mud-stuck trailer ha!
posted by c on 3-22-2010 at 12:27 pm
How much do they want for the lounge?
posted by Jason English on 3-22-2010 at 12:37 pm
c — funny you should ask. Usually it’s just me, but this time I brought my in-laws. They thought we were going to look at desert wildflowers. They were a bit freaked!
posted by Ransom Riggs on 3-22-2010 at 12:38 pm
I feel like I’ve posted the link before, but there was a documentary a while back that gave a good overview of the Salton Sea and the reasons it’s now largely deserted. It seems to pop up on the Sundance channel from time to time, or you can click on my name for a link to the producers’ website.
Wow – reCaptcha = were richness
posted by Roger on 3-22-2010 at 1:24 pm
Oh, and as always – AMAZING pics, Ransom!
posted by Roger on 3-22-2010 at 1:26 pm
You really should do a post on the origin of the Salton Sea and the effort that went into correcting the accident. Interesting piece of history.
posted by Old Geezer on 3-22-2010 at 2:29 pm
@ old geezer
I did, it’s here.
http://www.mentalfloss.com/blogs/archives/26542
posted by Ransom Riggs on 3-22-2010 at 2:34 pm
And a fine job it was.
posted by Old Geezer on 3-22-2010 at 2:57 pm
Incredible photos, wish I could visit the Salton Sea during my upcoming L.A. trip, but I don’t think my friends would pass up the beach to go.
posted by hockey zombie on 3-22-2010 at 3:11 pm
Has anyone ever shot a sci-fi movie there?
posted by Monkey on 3-22-2010 at 3:19 pm
I believe Anthony Bourdain had went here on an episode of No Reservations. It’s been a while since I’ve seen it, but I recall him hanging out with some of the residents at the town’s bar
posted by Andrew D on 3-22-2010 at 5:05 pm
Clamp the covers down on those hives and take them home! You can write an article on your foray into beekeeping.
posted by Zach on 3-22-2010 at 5:59 pm
Really great article!
posted by Kurt on 3-22-2010 at 6:48 pm
My grandparents used to spend the winter at the Fountain of Youth Spa, a sort of resort a short drive up a turnoff near Bombay Beach, from the late 60′s into the early 90′s. They developed many friendships with the people who lived in the town, and I couldn’t say that the people who lived there were really any different than my current big-city neighbours. Maybe a little more optimistic.
I remember a dinner in a home near the dike, the wind was blowing the water over the top of the dike and it hit the side of the house like a nor’easter. Only my little sister and I seemed to notice that something odd and scary was happening. The adults just shrugged it off and said everything was fine.
I wasn’t around for the area’s heyday, but seeing pictures of the current state of decay makes me very sad anyway.
posted by .Flamingo Girl on 3-22-2010 at 9:07 pm
One of the weird things about Bombay Beach is that the nearest store is about twenty miles away and yet, you never see a car with more than three wheels. I can’t imagine how they get supplies out there.
It’s basically a prison camp from a post-Apocalyptic B movie. The dyke feels like it’s there to keep the locals from escaping. You drive in the one entrance and make a long circle and then drive right back out.
Some of the homes are half burned and yet obviously still occupied. Lots of people sitting out front, apparently waiting for the rare car to drive by. Definitely some missing limbs on some of the occupants.
Be warned that you cannot discreetly drive through while ogling the occupants. They are outside and they are expecting you. There’s nothing else to do there.
posted by Antinous on 3-22-2010 at 11:16 pm
Interesting and creepy. You have a keen eye and an intriguing sensibility when it comes to odd locations. :)
posted by Phil on 3-22-2010 at 11:36 pm
I cannot get enough of your Strange Geographies! Have you ever thought of looking for any in Colorado?
posted by Heaz on 3-22-2010 at 11:45 pm
Didn’t they do an episode of No Reservations w/ Anthony Bourdain in this place?
posted by Teresa on 3-23-2010 at 12:09 am
Very nice pictures and report. Thanks for posting this!
For great background on the Salton Sea, I recommend the book: Salt Dreams: Land & Water in Low-Down California, by William deBuys and Joan Myers. Outstanding descriptive narrative and pictures.
posted by George on 3-23-2010 at 5:39 pm
Wow. I remember when I was about 10 years old (in 1963), our family drove out to the Salton Sea to visit the new development that was being touted as a “great place to retire” in the San Diego Union/Tribune. You know, I seem to remember that it looked pretty neat back then. There were all these “streets” already laid out for people to build their dream homes. Some already had, and they looked pretty nice. I wonder if “The Hills Have Eyes” guy was one of them? Anyway, the day we went, there was a sales information trailer (with AC of course) and my dad went in to talk to the guys while the rest of us wandered around the “lake” edge. He came back with a bunch of brochures and an (OMG) contract that he wanted mom to see. Thank God she told him there was no way she was going to live in the desert and that was that. I can just imagine old dad now, sitting in a concrete bunker, rifle on his knees, refusing to believe that his little lakeside palace had come to the sad end that these pics show. Honestly, he wouldn’t have left. Ah well…it’s very sad to see these pics but also wonderful to bring back memories of my crazy dad (RIP).
posted by DebinCO on 3-23-2010 at 5:46 pm
i remember back in the early 60s going there every weekend camping you had to get there thursday eve. to get a spot along the beach-it was full by friday afternoon-tons of waterskiers.my grandparents even joined the salton sea yacht club ! was a remarkable club back then-swimming pool lots of dances just like a country club! so sad to see it look like a war zone-we used to hang out at helens place on a island there !
posted by ray glenn on 3-23-2010 at 8:45 pm
You should have saved the bees! CA bees are dying of colony collapse and we need them!
Great pics.
posted by Alex on 3-24-2010 at 7:19 pm
I had never heard of this place – it really IS depressing!
posted by Deb on 3-25-2010 at 11:41 am
@Andrew D:
Bourdain did pass through here on No Reservations. I believe he was doing a roadtrip through the west and southwestern parts of the country. he stopped by here and had a pattymelt at one of (the only?) restaurant in town. No idea why I remember that, but there you go.
posted by Dave on 3-26-2010 at 11:29 am
Ransom, how do I get your job?!
posted by Erin on 3-31-2010 at 3:34 pm
I lived in nearby Niland in 1974. Bombay Beach was beautiful back then, and like swimming in a warm bath. Water was clear and smelled like the ocean. What a difference a few decades bring. I still dream about floating in the warm water looking up at a zillion stars. it was so dark i would light a candle and stick it in the sand before swimming so i could find my way back.
Bombay Beach was a collection of funky little winter cottages with a sea-side bar & grill. I also remember the Fountain of Youth and an artesian “hot spa” near The Slabs that was wonderful.
thanks for the article…i think. Just hope it doesnt affect my lovely recurrent dream.
posted by amuse on 4-14-2010 at 6:27 pm
Great pictures… almost too good. You can practically smell the rot.
posted by Brian on 7-27-2010 at 2:01 pm
Cool stuff, the dry wasteland pictures are the best.
posted by Anonymous on 7-30-2010 at 1:05 pm
Wasn’t expecting that comment about the fish bones. Terrible.
posted by Kidlet's Dad on 9-11-2010 at 6:48 pm
Have you been back, since? What is the approx. travel time from L.A.? How many other places have you photographed?
posted by Mario on 9-21-2010 at 11:58 pm
I grew up in the area. You should check out Salvation Mountain that is just east of the neighboring town of Niland.
posted by G.B on 11-5-2010 at 1:51 am
I went to the Salton Sea around 1986, but I don’t think it was Bombay Beach. Stlll, the beach was fishbones, and wherever it was, they had a souvenir shop. I bought a small paperback book about the Sea that must have been 25 years old at the time. Talk about a time warp.
posted by Jim on 12-14-2010 at 12:47 am
Come see a film about BOMBAY BEACH in the Tribeca Doc competition. Here is the trailer:
http://vimeo.com/19572656
posted by Bombay Beach on 3-27-2011 at 6:59 pm
Wow! I live in Joshua Tree, and 115° F isn’t really that bad – it is about average where I live (at 3,100 ft). Palm Springs gets up towards 118° F in the summer, try riding the tram up San Jacinto, where it is up to 40° F cooler!
posted by okinawa_dato on 4-22-2011 at 12:02 am
We all learn new lessons every day. I just learned not to send a reply until I’ve opened the email it pertains to. The email about the Salton sea brings back a flood of memories from long ago. I don’t remember the exact dates but sometime around 1957 or 1958 my next door neighbor Frank Mackley and I seen a map with the Salton sea on it. Being desert fiends we had to see it. The next week end we hung our water bags on the front bumper of our cars and took off for the Salton sea. Having no idea of what to expect we took every bit of camping gear we owned with us. We left Huntington Beach about 5:00 am. After stopping for gas, burgers and advice on how to get there we arrived at the east shore of the sea about 4:00 pm. The first order of business was to set up our surplus army tent. The wind was blowing as it always does there. The tent stakes were too short to hold very good but you do the best you can with what you’ve got. We tried wading barefoot and found the bottom was covered with sharply encrusted pebbles that cut you feet. That ended the bare feet. After eating our half cooked hot dogs, potato salad, chips and beer we gave up for the night and all piled into the half mast tent. Sometime during the night the wind shifted from offshore to onshore. We had set up the tent about 100 feet from shore. The land there is extremely flat and the shoreline moved about 200 feet putting us out in the water about 100 feet. We were all awakened in about 4-5 inches of water at 3:00 am. Waking up in a strange dark place( the half collapsed tent )with 5 other half drunk wet people was to say the least confusing. After finding my way out and having the only flashlight I successfully guided my friends back to our cars the wheels of which were in about two inches of water. The morning found us sitting in our wet cars with heaters running waiting for the sunshine. After gathering up our wet gear and loading the cars we left for home.
After such a wonderful camping experience we made many trips to the sea. We visited such places as Bat cave buttes and The forbidden U.S. government owned land and hot springs east of the highway. I think that’s were the original hippie came from. About ten or so acres filled with every imaginable shack, trailer ,tent and every other camping arrangement you have ever seen. There were several hot springs bubbling up from the ground. One had a block and wood building covering it. Steam poured from it. People with cancers and open wounds, open sores stood or sat around and attempted to expose their deceased areas to the steam. From there the hot water went through many cooling pools of various temperatures and out to the surrounding area. People who had stronger stomachs than I were soaking in the hot water pools hoping for some medical cure.
We apparently didn’t fit in. We were asked for food and donations as we attempted to leave. We had several tense moments before we got out. I think the final go home pass was my 1911 45 cal pistol that I had to show. That was one place we never returned too.
A few years later they started to sell lots at Salton City. I bought two with the intent of building a weekend getaway. Luckily I didn’t build right away because in a couple more years they were underwater and over two hundred feet from shore. I held on to them for about 6 more years and finally let them go for taxes. I’ve always wondered what happened to my first real estate venture.
Todd, thanks for the Salton Sea story. You’ve brought back many memories some good and some not so good Stan.
posted by Todd M. on 5-16-2011 at 5:11 pm
the trip to the best dirt bike riding on the planet is an adventure in it self have been going there for 40 plus years and the people there are great i know this in fact the people that own the ski inn bar and grill are my anut and uncle so next time any one goes there tell them craig sent us here and you will be treated like family and can here stories of how we all ended up there every thanks giving and they never left and you might just get stuck there forever also good luck
posted by cap on 5-25-2011 at 1:51 pm
i lived here when i was little and my grandfather owned the Bombay Market-i palled around with Chris Unger-The Belknaps-The Knights and The Leslies-wow what a trippy place-not sure how i managed to survive.
posted by Jon K on 11-1-2011 at 11:50 pm
You haven’t lived until you have…..Slept on the roof of the Ski Inn under a million stars with Pink Floyd softly screaming ’til dawn……Fought off a 6″ scorpion while restocking the Hardware Isle of the Bombay Market…..Rode a Wheelie all the way down the Airstrip leaving a cloud of dirt that hung in the dead humid air for hours while pissing off half the town……Taking a trip through the bombing range to collect parachutes and live .50 cal for decorations……Swinging from a rope off the Trestle into the Canal…..sneeking in to the Spa pools and being chased by old ladies who apparently needed that $1 fee badly!
posted by DLK on 11-7-2011 at 12:40 am
Hi, I have been going to bombay since I was 8 years old. 46 now. Always have a great time there. The people who live there are great and I have made friends with many of them. Don’t be so quick to judge.
posted by scott on 11-30-2011 at 2:11 am